You breach. You gob and gawp and hack at the briny blue. Have you been under for three minutes? You fell on the biggest wave you’ve ever tried. You ate it. Four minutes? More?
Getting “out the back” — beyond the white water — isn’t something to shy away from. After the first few times you go surfing, it’s time to get out there.
Are you ready? Have you trained enough? Can you handle it? Famous surf spots are terrifying. But only because you forgot one crucial thing.