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Legacy of Stoke is now published and available on Amazon.com. You can check it out here; http://www.amazon.com/Legacy-Stoke-Collection-Stories-Surfers/dp/1507870566/
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Such a great site! I look forward to chatting with you about working together!
Enjoy the site. I got my first board six months ago, a couple of weeks before my 40th birthday. My first session was very disheartening with no waves caught and a terrible attempt at finding the right place to position myself while paddling. Most of my time was spent underwater.
I persevered and after 4 or 5 weeks was standing up. Shortly after that I was catching green waves and then came my “moment”. In bigger surf than was comfortable in, i got called into a wave by a far more experienced surfer. I popped up, as good as I had ever and it shot me down and across the face. I was even doing turns and received a hoot from the guy who called me into it. That was it. Hooked!
Now I am spending my time looking at weather maps and when there is no surf I am training to ensure I am as fit as possible. I feel like I am 15 again.
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