The privileged few: Localism
Fist shaking, a bit of lip service. There’s a chance you might come across an angry oik with a penchant for tyre slashing, but in the vast majority of times, it’s just posturing.
The ‘system check’ aka ‘oh good I’m still alive’
You breach. You gob and gawp and hack at the briny blue. Have you been under for three minutes? You fell on the biggest wave you’ve ever tried. You ate it. Four minutes? More?
Cool Learners Look Stupid
Tell the truth about your experience and what you’d like to achieve. More time surfing waves and less time drinking sea water.
Buy A Crap Wetsuit
This is terrible, terrible advice. The first suit I bought was a £20-something, holey nightmare. It was hardly better than a t-shirt, but it was great for my early surfing ability.
Surfing your first reef break
Reef breaks. Scary stuff for a beginner surfer. Thoughts of cuts, infections, tropical diseases. But not all reefs are created equal.
Going beyond the white water
Getting “out the back” — beyond the white water — isn’t something to shy away from. After the first few times you go surfing, it’s time to get out there.
Wear earplugs when you surf
Surfer’s ear is nasty, and it’s not rare. Luckily for us, it’s completely avoidable. With one little piece of kit, you can avoid one of the worst parts of cold water surfing.
