There’s a mythical beast lurking in North Cornwall, silently brooding beneath the surface of the Atlantic.
It waits patiently for summer to pass, ready to fire when the conditions call…
Sri Lanka. Impossible beauty, unreal waves and local soul.
Beginner friendly? Sort of.
Devon rivals some of the best coastline in the world.
With a clear calender and an open mind, the travelling surf adventurer can stumble on hundreds of hidden bays and solitary breaks.
I posted about The Surfers Rite of Passage; making the “brave” decision to leave work, family and London rent behind.
I knew I’d be surfing, but the rest wrote itself…
Swollen with embarrassment, I flop down to watch the surfers I’d left behind in a panic.
There are no words.
I leave England a mediocre weekend warrior, let’s see what happens next…