The ‘system check’ aka ‘oh good I’m still alive’
You breach. You gob and gawp and hack at the briny blue. Have you been under for three minutes? You fell on the biggest wave you’ve ever tried. You ate it. Four minutes? More?
Going beyond the white water
Getting “out the back” — beyond the white water — isn’t something to shy away from. After the first few times you go surfing, it’s time to get out there.
Surfing famous waves
Are you ready? Have you trained enough? Can you handle it? Famous surf spots are terrifying. But only because you forgot one crucial thing.
Scared of Surfing? You’re doing it right
Surfing is terrifying. This is a good thing.
Fear and panic are two very different things. In surfing fear is healthy. Panic is lethal. Find out how to separate the two.
