Pick Up Your Leash!
Learners, never make this mistake. “You have a split second to decide whether you land on your face or your board. Somehow, you do both at the same time.”
The ‘system check’ aka ‘oh good I’m still alive’
You breach. You gob and gawp and hack at the briny blue. Have you been under for three minutes? You fell on the biggest wave you’ve ever tried. You ate it. Four minutes? More?
Cool Learners Look Stupid
Tell the truth about your experience and what you’d like to achieve. More time surfing waves and less time drinking sea water.
Surfing your first reef break
Reef breaks. Scary stuff for a beginner surfer. Cuts, infections, tropical diseases. Right? Well… not all reefs are created equal.
Going beyond the white water
Getting “out the back” — beyond the white water — isn’t something to shy away from. After the first few times you go surfing, it’s time to get out there.
Going over the falls
Going “over the falls” is at once one of the most unsettling and liberating feelings. It wakes you up, scares the blue hell out of you. But you bounce back.
How to fall properly
Always cover your head. Boards are dangerous, fins are sharp, heads are important. It’s not worth the risk. Cover your head.