You breach. You gob and gawp and hack at the briny blue. Have you been under for three minutes? You fell on the biggest wave you’ve ever tried. You ate it. Four minutes? More?
Tell the truth about your experience and what you’d like to achieve. More time surfing waves and less time drinking sea water.
Reef breaks. Scary stuff for a beginner surfer. Thoughts of cuts, infections, tropical diseases. But not all reefs are created equal.
Getting “out the back” — beyond the white water — isn’t something to shy away from. After the first few times you go surfing, it’s time to get out there.
Going “over the falls” is at once one of the most unsettling and liberating feelings. It wakes you up, scares the blue hell out of you. But you bounce back.
Always cover your head. Boards are dangerous, fins are sharp, heads are important. It’s not worth the risk. Cover your head.