Going beyond the white water
Getting “out the back” — beyond the white water — isn’t something to shy away from. The first few times you try surfing, you’ll be directed to the broken waves by your conscientious surf coach. After that, it’s time to get out there.
It’s calmer out there
You’ve been surfing a handful of times. Aside from that lucky day you found a small wave and had a cruisey few hours, you’re mostly used to dragging your board through the white water. Half the time you’re leaning into the rushing waves, getting whacked time and again, trying your best to remember the basics.
But when you get out the back, there’s a serenity. The “connection to the sea” and “aloha” spirit you hear people touting comes from the calm waters beyond the breakers. You’ll have to deal with bigger waves, and spend some time learning how to handle yourself, but the lulls between waves are worth the challenge.
You’re already ready to go
There’s a danger to waiting for the perfect moment or building up enough confidence when it comes to this part of surfing.
Pick a smaller day — you shouldn’t be out in conditions you’re uncomfortable — smaller waves aren’t going to hurt. You’ll get moved around, might take a knock or two and spend a lot of time getting used to being out of reaching distance to the bottom. But it’s worth it.
Spend some time sat on your board, get used to the feeling and when you’ve found your balance, enjoy the sensation.
I started surfing 4 years ago when I was 51. I dont have any trouble popping up in the white water, but I seem stuck there, because when I’m looking down a green wave my body throws me off the side,of the board, it’s become an automatic reaction. I dont seem to be able to get over the fear of being head first, and standing up doesn’t seem to be an option. I frustrate myself doing this, any advice on how to get over that moment so I can actually surf!!??
Hi Louise, great to hear from you, thanks for checking out the site. Without seeing you in action I’m going to have to make some assumptions. I know exactly what you mean about automatic reactions – all the research and prep seems to go out of the window when you’re in that heat-of-the-moment on the wave. The trick, I’ve found, is to make simple, single-minded adjustments until they stick.
First, conditions are everything. Small, clean days (1-2ft waves, nice gentle offshore breeze) can make the difference between whitewater and green waves minimal. It’s a great idea to be picky, starting small and building up your confidence as you go. If it’s a bit more chunky, stay in the white water and really get that muscle memory going.
Second, stay low. Bend at your knees when you pop up (not your back, not your hips – lots of beginners lean over (and get thrown sideways as you’ve described)) instead of crouching down. The golden rule is that you’ll never truly “stand up”.
Lastly, look where you’re going. In surfing, you naturally travel the way you look. If you find yourself looking at your feet or down at the wave, you’ll find yourself joining them pretty quickly.
Pop up into a low crouch. Stay as stable as you can, centred on the board. Look along the wave, eyes on the direction you want to travel.
There’s more you can do, but this should be a simple start to get your foundations nailed down.
I hope this helps, give it a try and please let me know how you get on. Catch up with me on instagram @overthedune if that makes life easier for you.