In the Line Up - Johny Goerend

Going beyond the white water

Getting “out the back” — beyond the white water — isn’t something to shy away from. The first few times you try surfing, you’ll be directed to the broken waves by your conscientious surf coach. After that, it’s time to get out there.

Longboard Line Break

It’s calmer out there

You’ve been surfing a handful of times. Aside from that lucky day you found a small wave and had a cruisey few hours, you’re mostly used to dragging your board through the white water. Half the time you’re leaning into the rushing waves, getting whacked time and again, trying your best to remember the basics.

But when you get out the back, there’s a serenity. The “connection to the sea” and “aloha” spirit you hear people touting comes from the calm waters beyond the breakers. You’ll have to deal with bigger waves, and spend some time learning how to handle yourself, but the lulls between waves are worth the challenge.

Longboard Line Break

You’re already ready to go

There’s a danger to waiting for the perfect moment or building up enough confidence when it comes to this part of surfing.

Pick a smaller day — you shouldn’t be out in conditions you’re uncomfortable — smaller waves aren’t going to hurt. You’ll get moved around, might take a knock or two and spend a lot of time getting used to being out of reaching distance to the bottom. But it’s worth it.

Spend some time sat on your board, get used to the feeling and when you’ve found your balance, enjoy the sensation.