Devon rivals some of the best coastline in the world.
With a clear calender and an open mind, the travelling surf adventurer can stumble on hundreds of hidden bays and solitary breaks.
I posted about The Surfers Rite of Passage; making the “brave” decision to leave work, family and London rent behind.
I knew I’d be surfing, but the rest wrote itself…
Swollen with embarrassment, I flop down to watch the surfers I’d left behind in a panic.
There are no words.
I leave England a mediocre weekend warrior, let’s see what happens next…
This trip was my first ass-whooping in the water, and as stupid as I felt at the time, I can see how crucial it was.
100 miles from home, four blokes forced breakfast on nervous stomachs and made for the “Severn Bore Inn”.
Bore riding day.