Devon rivals some of the best coastline in the world.
With a clear calender and an open mind, the travelling surf adventurer can stumble on hundreds of hidden bays and solitary breaks.
I posted about The Surfers Rite of Passage; making the “brave” decision to leave work, family and London rent behind.
I knew I’d be surfing, but the rest wrote itself…
Swollen with embarrassment, I flop down to watch the surfers I’d left behind in a panic.
There are no words.
I leave England a mediocre weekend warrior, let’s see what happens next…
This trip was my first ass-whooping in the water, and as stupid as I felt at the time, I can see how crucial it was.
100 miles from home, four blokes forced breakfast on nervous stomachs and made for the “Severn Bore Inn”.
Bore riding day.
I hit Woolacombe with my pals so many times after my first summer there that it became tradition. No matter how far apart we ended up moving, how important our jobs seemed or how our families grew, year after year we’d…
