I leave England a mediocre weekend warrior, let’s see what happens next…
This trip was my first ass-whooping in the water, and as stupid as I felt at the time, I can see how crucial it was.
100 miles from home, four blokes forced breakfast on nervous stomachs and made for the “Severn Bore Inn”.
Bore riding day.
I hit Woolacombe with my pals so many times after my first summer there that it became tradition. No matter how far apart we ended up moving, how important our jobs seemed or how our families grew, year after year we’d…
Out of season = lower cost. That was the selling point for a trip to Morocco with my girlfriend. We’d both decided we were hunting for a sun-drenched week. I wanted to surf without my wetsuit (for the first time),…
Nothing I can conjure better describes the feeling of being a learner surfer than “a fish out of water”. The combined feelings of uselessness and exhaustion that come from flapping around on a surfboard in frigid Atlantic seas are only…
After years of dreaming, years of aspiring to be “a surfer”… one day I had my brain rewired. British surfers back in the 70’s and 80’s were pioneers. From Newquay, the UK’s capital of surf, to the perfect, frigid barrels in…
