It wasn’t until a few years on from my first time in the surf that I got up close and personal with a surfboard. The final week of every year at my secondary school was called activities week. The school would…
Most surf back-stories seem to start with “I loved the beach as kid”. Well not mine. Not to start with anyway… I hated the beach when I was younger. I couldn’t stand the sticky suncream, cold water, whipping wind and the…
