Surfing famous waves
Are you ready? Have you trained enough? Can you handle it?
Famous surf spots are terrifying. But only because you forgot one crucial thing.
Awe, right in your guts
There are famous surf spots all around the world.
- Massive waves that make mainstream media, like Nazaré (na-za-ray) in Portugal and Mavericks in California.
- WSL pro tour stops: Teahupo’o (cho-poo) in Tahiti, Cloudbreak in Fiji and Snapper Rocks in Australia.
- Milestones for the travelling surfer: Uluwatu in Bali, Tea Tree/Noosa in Australia and Anchor Point in Morocco.
They’ve got unique calling cards — crystal water here, monster slabs there, perfect barrels at the next, long rides at another — and we hear about them before seeing them in person.
That familiar feeling, a mixture of anticipation, awe and fear, creeps in.
Hear-say, hyped up surf media and crazy videos usually don’t help, but seeing a spot on a “day-of-days” really drives the screw. After you’ve seen Uluwatu delivering 12ft monsters, set after set, you might think twice about ever jumping in.
So what’s the key?
Mother Nature strikes again
Like every other spot in the world, the conditions change every day.
I’ve seen some of the most famous spots in the world. On the days I happened to see them, some have been firing. Others have been dawdles.
You learn, as you press on, that not every wave is out of your league just because it’s made the news or the cover of a mag. I’m not saying you should take on the two mile paddle and push into the line-up at Mavericks when the forecast says it’s nice out, but it’s something to bear in mind.
Catch ‘Ulus’ on the right day and it could be within your grasp.
Just do your research first, focus on your own game and don’t let the name scare you off.
