The ‘system check’ aka ‘oh good I’m still alive’
You breach. You gob and gawp and hack at the briny blue. Have you been under for three minutes? You fell on the biggest wave you’ve ever tried. You ate it. Four minutes? More?
Scared of Surfing? You’re doing it right
Surfing is terrifying. This is a good thing.
Fear and panic are two very different things. In surfing fear is healthy. Panic is lethal. Find out how to separate the two.
