This trip was my first ass-whooping in the water, and as stupid as I felt at the time, I can see how crucial it was.
Hey! Thank you for the support over the years.
I'm not actively keeping this site up to date anymore, but you can check out my new initiative: Recalling Fire.
Over The Dune is about the in-between. The veiled stuff in surfing that nobody talks about. The veterans don't have time for it and beginner surfers pretend they already know.
So, at the risk of sounding out-of-style. Here's my progress so far: