Sri Lanka. Impossible beauty, unreal waves and local soul.
Beginner friendly? Sort of.
Devon rivals some of the best coastline in the world.
With a clear calender and an open mind, the travelling surf adventurer can stumble on hundreds of hidden bays and solitary breaks.
“Next bay! Head to the next bay!” There’s a clamour and a clatter. Doors slam. The raggedy engine turns over and a cloud of dust fills the air. We’ve sliced off another tasty morsel of freedom. Me and my partner…
I posted about The Surfers Rite of Passage; making the “brave” decision to leave work, family and London rent behind.
I knew I’d be surfing, but the rest wrote itself…
Swollen with embarrassment, I flop down to watch the surfers I’d left behind in a panic.
There are no words.