Catching That First Wave
Nothing I can conjure better describes the feeling of being a learner surfer than “a fish out of water”. The combined feelings of uselessness and exhaustion that come from flapping around on a surfboard in frigid Atlantic seas are only…
In Love With “The Idea Of Surfing”
After years of dreaming, years of aspiring to be “a surfer”… one day I had my brain rewired. British surfers back in the 70’s and 80’s were pioneers. From Newquay, the UK’s capital of surf, to the perfect, frigid barrels in…
The Moment I Realised
Around June 2007 I managed to find a surfboard for the first time in almost a year. Scolding myself for how long it’d been I visited a little place called Woolacombe and picked up a minimal from a surf-hire place…
